Views from the Cellar: The Brilliance of Chablis
Updated: Mar 26, 2019
For 15 years now, some incredibly generous friends and I have had this monthly dinner and tasting group. It morphed into a thematic dinner tasting too, but it was always a themed tasting of 6 wines, of some of the most renown names from well known wine regions tasted among 9 friends, that just love the food and wine experience. Here's a non-linear retrospective series of what we tasted, in crib-note form, that I'm calling...Views from the Cellar.
#1...2004 Lopez de Heredia Vina Gravonia Reserva (guessed older Chard...not Burg)
#2...2005 Lopez de Heredia Vina Gravonia Reserva (guessed Burg)
#3...2006 Lopez de Heredia Vina Gravonia Reserva (guessed Trevallon Blanc)
Themed Flight...Chablis - 1er and GC (Oct 2017)
(served with red lentil soup, buttered bruschetta with fresh made farmer's Cheese, herbed pecan-smoked salmon tart, and cheese mashed cauliflower)
A...and in 5th place: 2001 Dauvissat Les Clos
Carmelized pears and baked lemon curb, yielding more fresh green herbs in the palate. huge acid backbone, almost outstrips the fruit. Zingy, and not necessarily in the good way. Needs to meld.
B...and in 1st place (most enjoyed): 2011 Billaud-Simon 1er Montee de Tonniere
Exceedingly intense, pithy lemon acid, and lots of Mediterranean spices (cumin, corriander, ect), then this maize/smoky corn element in the palate, and a hard cheese rind, followed by bright acid.
C...and in 2nd place: 2014 Dom. Grossot 1er Vaucopins
Bright, bright lime/lime skin, and then polenta on the nose. Really herby in the palate, lots of Greek Oregano notes, back to the cheese, but more like Feta. Intensely savoury and lemon concentrate.
D...and in 4th place: 2004 Dom. Raveneau 1er Montee de Tonniere
Maize, almost sweet corn cassarole in the nose, then like browned sweet cream in the mouth, good acid...lemon/lime way, reminds me of Cumin and Cara Cara oranges...Ras al Hout spices
E...and in 3rd place: 2014 Lionel Bussey 1er Cote de Lechet
Lime and green apple skin, followed by thyme blossom, and apple blossom. Flinty goodness, with high-toned orangey acid, but more in the Kumquat bitter vein. Back to the green apple in the finish.
F...and in 6th place (least enjoyed): 2006 Dom. Pinson 1er La Forets
Sadly corked, and touching on premox to boot. Nothing to be done.
#1...2011 Billaud-Simon 1er Vaillons
#2...2013 Kabaj Ravau Ribolla Gialla
#1...1995 Mazzi Amarone de Valpolicella Recioto 'La Calcarole'
#2...NV Damilano Chinato Barolo